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Old 04-22-2017, 09:26 AM   #31
K G
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I have manual brakes on my rail for a clean look and to save weight. I did not like them at first. Then I put on a residual pressure valve, and they work great. The RPV keeps a light pressure in the line, 10 psi for drum and 2 psi for disk brakes. This gives you instant pressure for braking with less free play.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/techtalk/how...t-brake-valves

PS. makes bleeding the brakes a quick one man job.
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:39 AM   #32
dangeranger93
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n2xlr8n: when you were working on this did you happen to check and see if you could bottom out the master cylinder anymore?

I did mine the other day and mount up moving my pin up just over an inch (6:1 ratio) and now with the assembly bolted together out of the truck the pedal hits the aluminum pedal box before bottoming out the master while the power ratio bottoms out quite a bit before that. Also do you know what size bore master you are using? mine is a 1" bore from a 93 ranger. I guess we wont really know how the travel will affect this until we go to stop for the first time haha
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Old 05-03-2017, 06:05 AM   #33
n2xlr8n
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangeranger93 View Post
n2xlr8n: when you were working on this did you happen to check and see if you could bottom out the master cylinder anymore?

I did mine the other day and mount up moving my pin up just over an inch (6:1 ratio) and now with the assembly bolted together out of the truck the pedal hits the aluminum pedal box before bottoming out the master while the power ratio bottoms out quite a bit before that. Also do you know what size bore master you are using? mine is a 1" bore from a 93 ranger. I guess we wont really know how the travel will affect this until we go to stop for the first time haha
Sorry I missed this.

I did and no- if I understand you correctly. I bled the MC and checked the pedal travel and it's not even close to bottoming. I did notice the rod was longer for the manual MC, though.

It's a cheapo NM1931 from a 1984 Ranger, 15/16" bore.
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