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Old 10-01-2017, 02:36 AM   #51
TIMMA
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The 2 black steel pipe barbs sticking out on the 2004+ IM are for coolant lines that you don't have. They added that so that the crankcase vapors don't ice up when entering the manifold. I left mine open. The 2003 and earlier did not have this setup at all.

I re-attached the vacuum solenoid (controls the IMRC) and just looped the vacuum hose to keep crap out. I had to have it electrically connected to avoid a MIL. I was unsuccessful turning off IMRC (truck ran like crap), so I just calibrated it out (flaps open at all speeds/loads).
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Old 10-01-2017, 01:52 PM   #52
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Excellent, I was planning on leaving it attached as well, though I didn't realize that the little solenoid also controlled the IMRC's. I thought it was just the thing that bolted to the IM and actually opened and closed the flaps. So in theory the computer will be happy because it still thinks its doing something. When I get a tune I'll bring that up and maybe have the guy do something about it if possible.
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Old 10-01-2017, 02:11 PM   #53
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One last question just for confirmation, the older intake has a small vacuum port for the fuel rail on intake runner #1. The new style does not, at least that I can see now that the IM is on the truck. There is a similar size vacuum port on the "outside" of the IM, at the bottom facing the brake master cylinder. I'm just going to get a longer vacuum hose and use that one for the fuel rail. Is there another vacuum port that I will need to plug to prevent a vacuum leak?
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:45 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by wrath of kyle View Post
One last question just for confirmation, the older intake has a small vacuum port for the fuel rail on intake runner #1. The new style does not, at least that I can see now that the IM is on the truck. There is a similar size vacuum port on the "outside" of the IM, at the bottom facing the brake master cylinder. I'm just going to get a longer vacuum hose and use that one for the fuel rail. Is there another vacuum port that I will need to plug to prevent a vacuum leak?
No, that is exactly what I did. The fuel rail pulse damper has that vacuum port, but I don't think it really does anything--it's not a regulator. But I figured hooking it up to the nipple on the outside of the IM would at least keep crap from getting in (and be hooked up like OEM).

You will still get a MIL for the IMRC since they will not respond to the commanded position, but you won't also get a code for the vacuum solenoid open circuit.
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Old 10-02-2017, 12:58 AM   #55
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Success!! It started up and ran almost instantly. Although it doesn't run all that smoothly, its kinda chugs almost like a tractor. And TIMMA, you are quite correct. The check engine light popped on indicating the IMRC are stuck open. (I think that is what the code said, that was earlier this afternoon) I only ran the motor for about 5 minutes, I had to go do other stuff unfortunately, and the clutch pedal was soft and it won't go into gear right now. Hopefully it only needs to be bled, because the pedal felt good on Saturday night, and there was no fluid on the ground that I saw. A friend is coming by tomorrow morning to help me bleed the system.

So, now the question is, what kind of a tuner do I need to find?
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Old 10-02-2017, 12:02 PM   #56
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I got the clutch bled, and it goes into gear now. Hopefully it stays that way. I let the truck run for about 8 minutes or so, just trying to get it warmed up and make sure nothing is leaking and stuff, and I noticed that the exhaust was starting to glow red.

So that means either its running rich, the timing is off, or the exhaust is plugged. I wouldn't think it is running rich, because in theory the 2.5 requires more fuel so if anything I would think its running lean. I could be wrong. I don't think the timing is off, because its computer controlled and if I screwed up installing the cams then it wouldn't run at all I would imagine. So I then disconnected the mufflers to see if that was plugged, and I got the same result, red hot exhaust. Although it took a bit longer for the exhaust to get red hot. I'm going to let the truck cool down, then run it straight off the exhaust manifold and see if there is any difference.

If the cats are plugged then it would make sense as to why it wouldn't run in the first place. I bought the truck off ebay sight unseen except for the pictures. Once I got it home I did a compression test and it was good, #1 was 170 and the rest were at #190. I pulled each spark plug and cranked the engine to check spark, and they were all good. And lastly, the schrader valve on the fuel rail squirted gas at me. It had all the things required to run, but it still wouldn't run, so I thought that the timing chain had slipped. However, the timing was spot on once I got the engine out. Maybe the 2.3 with 140k miles couldn't overcome a plugged exhaust. If that indeed is the problem. Anyone have any thoughts?
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Old 10-04-2017, 05:13 PM   #57
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A vacuum test would get you the results you need for a plugged catalytic converter.

Just connect up a vacuum gauge. A normal reading at idle will be 16-21 in.hg. If it's lower than that you've either got a big vacuum leak or a plugged exhaust system or late timing. Now warm up the engine. Once at temp slowly rev the engine to 2500 and hold it there. If the gauge is lower or starts to creep down then it's a plugged exhaust system.

You can also use an infrared temp gun and check the temp of the exhaust before and after the cat. The temp after the cat should be approximately 30*-100* higher than the temp before the cat. If the temp after the cat is the same or lower then there's an issue with the cat. It could also be a bad muffler but temp readings really won't help with that.
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Old 10-04-2017, 07:59 PM   #58
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Just wondering if you got an adapter for the intake manifold or are you bolting it directly to the head?
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Old 10-05-2017, 01:46 AM   #59
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Just wondering if you got an adapter for the intake manifold or are you bolting it directly to the head?
I bought the adapter from Frank. It works great so far. He was totally cool to deal with and if someone is going to do the swap I'd go that route again.
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Old 10-05-2017, 01:58 AM   #60
wrath of kyle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soledad View Post
A vacuum test would get you the results you need for a plugged catalytic converter.

Just connect up a vacuum gauge. A normal reading at idle will be 16-21 in.hg. If it's lower than that you've either got a big vacuum leak or a plugged exhaust system or late timing. Now warm up the engine. Once at temp slowly rev the engine to 2500 and hold it there. If the gauge is lower or starts to creep down then it's a plugged exhaust system.

You can also use an infrared temp gun and check the temp of the exhaust before and after the cat. The temp after the cat should be approximately 30*-100* higher than the temp before the cat. If the temp after the cat is the same or lower then there's an issue with the cat. It could also be a bad muffler but temp readings really won't help with that.

Thats too much work for my illiterate and lazy butt, though I do appreciate the tips. A friend, who works for Ford, told me to take out the front O2 sensor and let it run. I did and it did not start glowing red, so most likely the cats are plugged up. It also ran quite a bit smoother than with the exhaust fully intact. With the exhaust system all together it ran like a steam tractor, chugging along and slow to rev. So, I'll see if the local muffler place can beat the rock auto price for new cats. Once that is done I can make sure everything is OK (no leaks or obvious problems related to a new engine), then look for a tuner.
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